HORSEBACK    RIDING 


DOROTHY  L.  BURKETT 


JOHNA.SEAVERNS 


3  9090  014  558  585 


Horseback  Riding 


WeMer  Famfly  Dbrary  of  Velennary  Medtcme 

Oimmiing»  School  of  Veterinary  Medicine  srt 

Tufts  University 

200  Westboro  Road 

Morth6raflon.MA  01536 


Horseback  Riding 

A  Practical  Guide 
for  Beginners 

Containing  brief  and  helpful  hints  on  how  to 

ride    a  horse,  riding  equipment  and 

the  acquirement  of  skill  and 

good  form  in  riding 


By 

DOROTHY   LOUISE    BURKETT 


New  York 

Orange  Judd  Publishing  Co. 

London:  Kegan  Pavil,  French,  Trubncr  &  Co.,  Limited 
1922 


Copyright,   1922,  by 
Orange    Judd    Publishing-   Co. 


Printed  in  the  United  States 


TO 

MY  FATHER 

Whose  sympathy  and  approval  inspired  and 
encouraged     its     preparation,     this 
little    volume    is    affection- 
ately dedicated  by 
the  author. 


TABLE  OF   CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PACF, 

Foreword    1 

I  Horse  and  Rider 6 

II  Approaching  a  Horse  ....  9 

III  The  Start 13 

IV  Putting  on  the  Bridle 18 

V  Saddling  the  Horse 22 

VI  The  Bit  and  Reins 27 

VII  The  Stirrup  Strap 30 

VIII   Spurs 34 

IX  The  Whip  or  Crop 36 

X  Mounting 38 

XI  The  Hands 42 

XII  The  Legs 47 

XIII  The  Feet 51 

XIV  Turning 53 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

XV  Backing 56 

XVI  The  Halt 59 

XVII  The  Walk 62 

XVIII  The  Trot  .^,. 66 

XIX  Gallop  and  Canter 70 

XX  Other  Riding  Gaits 74 

XXI  Dismounting 76 

XXII   Bad  Manners 80 

XXIII  The  Seat 84 


FOREWORD 

Friends  and  riding  pupils  have 
frequently  asked  me  where  the 
fundamental  principles  of  horse- 
back riding  might  be  obtained 
in  brief  form  and  written  in 
simple  language. 

Many  books,  of  course,  have 
been  w^ritten  on  the  subject  of 
equestrianism  but  not  primarily 
from  the  viewpoint  of  very 
young  riders  and  beginners. 
This  fact  has  led  to  a  belief  that 
this  book  is  needed  and  v/ill  be 
useful  to  all  who  are  interested 
in  horseback  riding  as  a  graceful, 
1 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

enjoyable  and  valuable  form  of 
exercise  and  recreation. 

What  has  been  written  is  pri- 
marily for  beginners,  yet  it  is  be- 
lieved that  others  vv^ho  are  lovers 
of  horses  and  of  the  art  of  riding 
will  find  many  things  of  value  in 
the  rules  and  exercises  that  are 
suggested. 

Riding  is  an  art  based  simply 
upon  things  that  are  learned  by 
doing;  if  wrongly  done,  riding 
is  ungraceful  and  tiresome,  but 
done  correctly,  joy  to  the  rider 
IS  as  lasting  as  life  itself. 

It  is  my  belief  that  the  rules  de- 
veloped in  this  book  are  essential 
principles  that  one  must  follow^ 
in  order  to  become  a  good  rider. 
One  may  not  know  these  prin- 
2 


FOREWORD 

ciples,  for  the  good  rider  acquires 
them  unconsciously.  An  accom- 
pHshed  rider  is  such  because  he 
already  has  been  doing  the  things 
that  have  been  suggested  in  these 
pages.  What  follows,  therefore, 
is  nothing  less  or  nothing  more 
than  the  doing  of  what  naturally 
makes  horseback  riding  both  a 
graceful  and  a  delightful  exer- 
cise. 

From  childhood  I  have  been 
privileged  to  ride  a  horse.  When 
I  was  a  small  girl,  my  father 
vsrould  put  me  on  a  horse — a  safe 
one,  of  course, — and  teach  me  the 
first  things  to  do.  As  I  grew  older 
these  riding  experiences  were 
broadened  by  riding  in  a  girl's 
3 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

camp  and  in  the  parks  of  the  city 
in  which  I  lived. 

During  these  formative  days  I 
was  fortunate  also  in  having  in- 
struction under  a  celebrated 
teacher  of  equestrianism,  a  Span- 
ish gentleman  of  culture,  whose 
greatest  satisfaction  came  from 
helping  those  who  appreciated 
his  instruction  and  recognized 
the  fine  points  in  the  art  of  riding 
of  which  he  was  such  an  enthusi- 
astic exponent. 

Still  later,  I  was  privileged  to 
be  an  instructor  of  horseback  rid- 
ing at  Camp  Barnard,  a  girls' 
summer  camp  where  riding  is 
accorded  an  important  place  in 
the  camp  routine  work  and  train- 
ing. In  the  position  of  teacher  I 
4 


FOREWORD 

have  tested  out  what  has  here 
been  put  in  print.  If  these  pages 
make  the  way  a  little  plainer  to 
those  who  earnestly  w^ant  to 
learn  how  to  ride  a  horse,  my 
purpose  will  have  been  fully 
accomplished. 

DOROTHY  L.  BURKETT. 
New  York,  N.  Y. 


I 

HORSE  AND  RIDER 

Nothing  about  riding  is  so  im- 
portant as  making  up  your  mind 
to  control  your  horse.  A  horse 
knows  whether  its  rider  is  afraid 
of  him  or  not.  TTiis  fear  is  con- 
veyed to  the  horse  by  nervous  use 
of  the  reins,  by  stiffness  of  seat, 
by  the  way  the  feet  are  moved  in 
the  stirrups,  by  speech  and  by 
other  acts  that  actually  disturb  or 
frighten  the  animal. 

When  a  rider  gets  on  his  horse 
he  must  be  sure  that  he  intends 
to  manage  his  horse  and  not  let 
6 


HORSE  AND  RIDER 

the  horse  manage  him.  If  you 
lack  this  confidence,  select  an- 
other horse  that  you  positively 
know  you  can  control.  In  a  sur- 
prisingly short  time  the  rider  will 
acquire  ease  and  confidence  and 
both  w^ill  be  conveyed  to  the 
horse.  After  this  lesson  is 
learned,  riding  will  take  a  nat- 
ural course  and  will  be  done  with 
safety. 

In  riding  there  are  two  essen- 
tials that  must  never  be  forgot- 
ten: (1)  to  secure  and  keep  a 
firm  seat;  and  (2)  to  use  a  '*light 
hand."  Without  a  combination 
of  the  two  no  one  can  become  a 
good  horseman. 

Almost   equally   important   is 
the  know^ledge  of  the  proper  ac- 
7 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

tion  in  emergencies.  If  a  horse 
runs  away,  do  not  exhaust  your- 
self by  vain  pulling,  but  guide 
him  out  of  danger,  and  let  him 
run  until  he  is  tired. 

If  a  horse  rears,  loosen  the  reins 
and  lean  forward. 

In  case  of  kicking,  keep  his 
head  up  as  much  as  possible  and 
sit  firm  in  the  saddle. 

If  he  stumbles,  quickly  draw  in 
the  reins  to  help  him  recover. 


II 

APPROACHING  A  HORSE 

A  good  rule  never  to  be  for- 
gotten is  always  to  approach  a 
horse  from  the  front.  Beginners 
are  not  the  only  persons  who 
often  foolishly  w^alk  up  to  a  horse 
from  behind.  Riders  of  long  ex- 
perience frequently  commit  this 
fault;  they  become  careless  at 
times  and  make  the  approach 
from  w^herever  they  happen  to 
be.  Some  of  them  remember 
their  f orgetf ulness  with  regret. 

The  experienced  horseman 
knows  that  horses  of  tempera- 
9 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

ment  and  mettle  are  easily  sur- 
prised. Even  an  old  trusty  horse 
is  apt  to  strike  out  a  leg  in  de- 
fense, when  he  fancies  some- 
thing is  happening  behind  him. 
His  natural  weapon  is  his  foot 
and  he  uses  it  with  a  kick. 

When  you  approach  a  horse 
from  the  front  you  go  up  to  him 
w^ith  outstretched  hand  and  a 
friendly  w^ord.  There  is  no  sur- 
prise; the  horse  is  put  at  ease  and 
you  feel  on  safer  ground  w^ith  the 
animal.  This  rule  applies  for  all 
occasions — w^hen  the  horse  is  in 
the  open,  whether  equipped  for 
riding,  or  is  running  loose  in  pad- 
dock or  box  stall. 

Where  the  horse  stands  in  his 
stall,  tied  with  halter,  the  ap- 
10 


APPROACHING  A  HORSE 

proach  naturally  must  be  made 
in  a  different  manner.  You  come 
to  the  stall  and  stand  at  the  rear 
of  the  animal.  By  speaking  a  few 
words,  calling  the  animal  by 
name,  all  surprise  is  cleared 
away  and  the  horse,  recognizing 
the  voice,  realizes  a  friend,  not  a 
foe,  is  near  him. 

The  horse  is  told  to  stand  over 
as  the  approach  is  made,  and  if 
he  is  accustomed  to  it,  your  hand 
may  be  laid  on  the  hip  or  croup, 
and  a  slight  pressure  given  as  a 
signal  for  the  horse  to  step  over 
to  the  other  side  of  the  stall.  This 
is  to  make  room  for  you  to  enter 
the  stall.  The  horse  will  move  to 
the  other  side  if  properly  trained, 
and  if  not,  he  should  be  trained  to 
11 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

do  this.  As  you  pass  up  toward 
the  head  of  the  stall,  a  gentle  pat 
or  two  is  in  order. 

You  now  loosen  the  halter 
strap  or  remove  the  halter  alto- 
gether and  put  on  the  bridle.  The 
saddle  may  be  placed  on  the 
horse  and  the  girths  attached 
while  the  horse  stands  in  the  stall 
or  the  act  of  saddling  may  be 
completed  elsewhere.  The  horse 
then  is  backed  out  and  led  to  any 
place  convenient  for  mounting, 
or  he  is  disposed  of  for  the  mo- 
ment as  best  serves  the  conveni- 
ence of  the  person  bringing  him 
out. 


12 


Ill 

THE  START 

In  learning  to  ride  much  de- 
pends on  making  the  right  kind 
of  start.  If  there  is  fear  of  a  horse, 
overcome  this  fear.  Next  get 
astride  of  the  horse,  even  though 
riding  is  not  to  be  done  at  the  first 
trial.  Learn  how  it  feels  to  be 
on  a  horse. 

Choose  for  the  first  lessons  a 
horse  that  is  quiet,  and  for  the 
first  lessons  do  not  be  ashamed 
of  using  one  that  is  really  aged. 
A  restive  and  excitable  horse  of- 
ten lessens,  instead  of  improves, 
13 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

a  beginner's  confidence.  For  this 
reason  a  frantic  mount  should 
not  be  chosen  for  the  first  rides. 

One  may  ride  bareback  for  the 
first  lesson  or  tw^o;  or  if  pre- 
ferred, a  saddle  may  be  used  with 
the  stirrups  crossed.  This  helps 
in  two  ways:  it  gets  rid  of  the  ten- 
dency to  support  the  weight  on 
the  stirrups  instead  of  the  saddle, 
a  fault  that  many  beginners  eas- 
ily fall  into;  it  trains  the  rider  to 
grip  with  knees  and  thighs  and 
so  hold  on,  a  lesson  that  should 
be  learned  so  thoroughly  that  it 
w^ill  never  be  forgotten. 

Avoid  placing  only  the  toe  of 

the  foot  in  the  stirrup.     Many  do 

this,  thinking  it  aids  in  rising  to 

the  trot.     The  fact  is,  the  lower 

14 


THE  START 

half  of  the  leg  shoud  be  held 
relatively  stationary  even  in  the 
trot.  What  rise  there  is  should 
come  from  the  knees  up. 

A  better  support  for  the  feet  is 
secured  by  putting  the  ball  of  the 
foot  quite  well  forward  in  the 
centre  of  the  stirrup.  The  Eng- 
lish rule  is  to  push  the  feet  well 
'*home,"  even  through  to  the  in- 
step. This  form  is  permissible 
for  fast  riding  and  ^vhen  riding 
to  the  hunt,  but  for  park  riding 
it  is  not  generally  popular  in  this 
country. 

It  is  not  a  disadvantage  to  use 
different  horses,  especially  after 
a  bit  of  progress  has  been  made 
in  riding.  Doing  this  tends  to 
strengthen  one's  confidence;  it  is, 
15 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

therefore,  worth  while  not  to 
ride  the  same  horse  time  after 
time. 

After  a  few  lessons  the  novelty 
of  riding  will  be  over,  confidence 
w^ill  come  and  each  ride  w^ill  im- 
prove in  pleasure  and  enjoy- 
ment. When  once  one  gains  that 
confidence,  he  vvrill  hardly  be 
able  to  wait  until  the  next  ride. 
A  friend  of  mine  on  beginning  to 
ride  w^as  at  first  afraid  of  a  horse 
but  one  day,  after  I  had  talked  to 
her  on  the  subject,  she  sum- 
moned up  enough  courage  to  try 
again.  Several  months  later  I 
learned  she  wras  riding  three 
times  a  week !  She  could  hardly 
wait  till  her  appointed  hour  and 
after  a  few  w^eeks  she  rode  every 
16 


THE  START 

single  day  when  the  weather  per- 
mitted. 

"Will  I  fall  off  ?"  How  many 
beginners  have  this  as  a  more  or 
less  continuous  fear!  What  if 
you  do  fall  off!  As  one  rides 
more  and  more  it  comes  home  to 
him  that  there  is  nothing  terrible 
in  being  * 'thrown."  Therefore 
forget  about  falling  off  and  learn 
to  make  your  horse  do  what  you 
w^ant  him  to  do.  And  I  might 
add,  moreover,  that  there  is  an 
old  saying  that  no  one  becomes  a 
good  rider  until  thrown  at  least 
three  times. 


17 


IV 

PUTTING  ON  THE  BRIDLE 

A  horse  accustomed  to  a  bit 
and  bridle  that  fit  him  will  offer 
less  opposition  to  having  a  bridle 
put  on  him  than  would  be  the 
case  if  an  improper  bit  w^ere  in 
use,  or  the  bridle  w^ere  too  small, 
thus  causing  discomfort  or  pain. 

The  mouth  is  sensitive  and 
easily  abused.  The  object  of  cor- 
rect bridling  is  to  preserve,  in- 
stead of  diminish  the  sensitive- 
ness of  the  mouth,  hence  the 
right  sort  of  bit  and  bridle  is  a 
18 


PUTTING  ON  THE  BRIDLE 

pre-requisite  for  efficient  hand- 
ling and  control  of  the  mount. 

When  ready  to  bridle  the  horse 
you  are  of  course  standing  in 
proper  position  at  the  horse's 
head.  The  bridle  is  lifted  up- 
wards with  the  left  hand  in  front 
of  the  face  of  the  horse  until  it  is 
above  his  eyes.  The  right  hand 
is  now^  passed  over  the  horse's 
head  vvrhere  the  bridle  is  grasped 
for  the  purpose  of  placing  it  in 
position.  The  left  hand  is  w^ith- 
drav/n  and  low^ered  to  the  region 
of  his  mouth. 

The  mouth  is  opened  by  a 
slight  pressure  with  the  thumb 
and  forefinger  on  the  bars  under 
the  lower  lip,  and  the  bit  guided 
into  the  mouth  by  the  left  hand. 
19 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

Some  horses  readily  permit  the 
bit  to  be  inserted  while  others  are 
slow  about  opening  the  lips.  If 
you  insert  the  forefinger  in  be- 
tween the  lips  and  tickle  the  roof 
of  the  mouth,  further  resistance 
to  admission  is  usually  overcome. 

The  act  of  bridling  is  com- 
pleted by  lifting  the  bridle  with 
the  right  hand  up  over  the  head, 
placing  the  poll  strap  back  of  the 
ears  where  it  readily  falls  into 
place.  In  adjusting  the  throat 
latch  remember  that  if  drawn  too 
tight  it  may  cause  unnecessary 
discomfort  to  the  horse. 

In   case   the  animal   is   to   be 

mounted    at    once    arrange    the 

reins  backward  on  the  neck  in 

proper  position  and  mount  the 

20 


PUTTING  ON  THE  BRIDLE 

horse.  If  not  ready  for  mounting 
it  is  permissible  to  hold  the  ani- 
mal, or  to  lead  him  by  the  reins 
to  whatever  spot  is  the  objective 
pointo  The  reins  may  be  with- 
drav^n  from  over  the  horse's 
head  and  used  as  a  lead  strap. 


21 


V 

SADDLING  THE  HORSE 

WEatever  kind  of  saddle  is 
used,  make  certain  that  the  stir- 
rups and  stirrup  straps  are  trust- 
worthy. Many  a  fall  has  been  the 
result  of  an  old  or  imperfect  stir- 
rup strap.  Get  a  stirrup  that  fits 
the  foot.  Losing  a  stirrup  from 
the  slipping  out  of  the  foot  when 
taking  a  fast  gait  is  annoying  and 
may  cause  a  mishap. 

A  saddle  cloth  under  the  sad- 
dle is  desirable  for  three  reasons: 
First,  if  protects  the  rider's  gar- 
ments from  being  soiled  by  per- 
22 


SADDLING  THE  HORSE 

spiration  of  the  horse;  second,  it 
absorbs  perspiration  under  the 
saddle,  thus  aiding  in  keeping  the 
pads  of  the  saddle  soft  and  flex- 
ible; and  third,  it  greatly  protects 
the  horse  from  injury  that  would 
come  with  the  use  of  the  saddle 
next  to  the  horse's  back.  Some 
saddles,  how^ever,  are  so  excel- 
lently made  that  a  saddle  cloth  is 
unnecessary. 

To  put  on  a  saddle,  stand  at 
the  side  of  the  horse  and  place 
the  saddle  squarely  over  the 
horse's  back  just  behind  the  top 
of  the  shoulders.  The  region  on 
the  top  of  the  shoulders  in  the 
horse  is  known  as  the  withers. 
You  may  find  it  less  difficult  if 
the  stirrups  are  crossed  over  the 
23 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

top  of  the  saddle  when  the  sad- 
dle is  put  on  the  horse.  After  the 
girths  are  adjusted  the  stirrups 
are  dropped  into  position. 

Arrange  the  saddle  cloth  and 
saddle  so  that  they  present  a  neat 
appearance.  Be  sure  that  the 
blanket  or  pad  is  entirely  void  of 
any  roughness  or  wrinkles  before 
the  saddle  is  put  in  place.  Neg- 
ligence in  arranging  the  pad  be- 
fore placing  the  saddle  often 
causes  painful  and  troublesome 
sores  on  the  horse's  back. 

Now  reach  dow^n  under  the 
horse  for  the  girths.  A  double 
girth  is  safer  than  a  single  one. 
First,  attach  the  girth  in  front. 
As  you  tighten  it  the  horse  may 
* 'swell  up"  for  the  reason  he  does 
24 


SADDDLING  THE  HORSE 

not  ^vant  a  tight  corset  around 
him. 

Fasten  the  front  girth  as  tight 
as  you  can.  This  done,  reach  un- 
der the  horse  and  get  the  other 
girth  and  draw  it  up  as  you  did 
with  the  first  one.  Return  now 
to  the  f  orew^ard  girth  and  take  up 
the  slack  in  it,  drawing  it  tight. 
This  done,  repeat  the  same  oper- 
ations w^ith  the  second  or  outer 
girth. 

The  last  thing  is  the  fastening 
of  the  girth.  This  is  done  after 
you  feel  certain  that  under  no  cir- 
cumstances can  the  saddle  turn 
w^hen  the  rider  is  seated  in  it. 
With  a  little  practice  in  adjusting 
the  girths  and  making  them  se- 
cure no  further  difficulty  will  be 

25 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

experienced  in  making  the  sad- 
dle secure  for  any  kind  of  riding. 
It  goes  without  saying  that 
every  real  horseman  knows  how 
to  saddle  his  horse.  A  groom  or 
stable  boy  may  do  this  ordinarily 
but  there  aWays  comes  a  time 
when  this  knowledge  and  experi- 
ence are  greatly  appreciated  by 
the  man  or  w^oman  who  rides  a 
horse. 


26 


VI 

THE  BIT  AND  REINS 

The  double  rein  and  bit  are 
preferable,  especially  for  horses 
of  courage,  or  for  animals  that 
are  spirited  or  unruly.  In  riding, 
both  pairs  of  reins  may  be  held  in 
the  hands,  or  the  rider  may  "ride 
on"  the  snaffle,  as  it  is  called, 
governing  the  horse  with  the 
light  bit.  In  this  case  the  curb 
rein  hangs  slack  until  required, 
thereby  saving  the  horse  incon- 
venience, possibly  pain,  and 
avoiding  the  unnecessary  hard- 
ening of  the  mouth. 
27 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

Some  riders  knot  the  curb  rein 
and  allow  it  to  rest  on  the  neck  of 
the  animal,  where  if  needed,  it 
can  readily  be  grasped  and  be 
brought  into  use. 

The  Y/ay  the  rider  uses  the 
reins  is  of  the  utmost  importance. 
A  rider  "whose  hands  convey  to 
the  horse  a  sympathetic  touch  or 
manner  of  holding  the  bridle 
reins,  most  easily  controls  the 
animal  he  is  riding.  A  "heavy 
fisted"  rider  gets  less  out  of  a 
horse  than  another  with  "light 
hands."  The  heavy  handed  in- 
dividual has  most  trouble  vsrith 
his  horse,  w^hereas  light  hands  se- 
cure just  the  kind  of  control  that 
brings  out  the  best  there  is  in  the 
horse.  A  light  hand  is  a  firm  hand 
28 


THE  BIT  AND  REINS 

but  not  rough  in  its  use  of  the 
reins. 

Much  depends  upon  the  bit.  A 
bit  suited  to  one  horse  may  be 
entirely  unsuited  to  another. 

It  is  important  that  the  bit  be 
adjusted  to  the  mouth  of  the  ani- 
mal, both  with  respect  to  size  and 
width.  Furthermore,  the  bit 
should  be  attached  to  the  bridle 
in  such  manner  as  to  '*hang  free" 
in  the  mouth  and  not  to  draw^  up 
at  the  sides,  thus  causing  discom- 
fort to  the  horse.  When  the  reins 
hang  loose,  the  bit  should  offer 
no  pressure  at  any  point  on  the 
horse's  mouth. 


29 


VII 
THE  STIRRUP  STRAP 

The  stirrup  strap  has  much  to 
do  in  the  maintenance  of  a  good 
seat  in  horseback  riding.  If  too 
short,  the  knee  is  caused  to  bend, 
an  effect  in  itself  that  is  unsight- 
ly. A  longer  stirrup  improves 
appearance  in  the  seat  and  gives 
more  ease  to  the  mount. 

Another  objection  against  the 
short  stirrup  is  the  insecurity  of 
it.  It  is  by  gripping  with  knees 
and  thighs  that  the  rider  most 
easily  keeps  his  seat  in  the  sad- 
dle. This  thigh  gripping  is  less- 
30 


THE  STIRRUP  STRAP 

ened  when  the  knees  are  forced 
up  by  short  stirrups. 

The  jumping- jack  effect  so 
frequently  observed  among  rid- 
ers is  the  result  of  unduly  short 
stirrups.  Furthermore,  this  short 
stirrup  tends  to  throw  the  body 
forward,  causing  the  rider  to  rise 
up  too  high  in  the  trot.  Short  stir- 
rups are  often  responsible  for 
lack  of  grace  in  the  posture. 

If  the  stirrups  are  set  to  the 
right  length  the  rider  will  be  sit- 
ting near  to  the  centre  of  action 
on  the  horse.  Short  stirrups  force 
the  rider  to  sit  to  the  back  of  the 
saddle  which  is  not  comfortable 
for  horse  or  rider. 

Four  good  rules  for  determin- 
31 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

ing  the  proper  length  of  stirrups 
are  as  follows: 

First.  When  the  leg  is  ex- 
tended the  stirrup  should  hang 
opposite  the  ankle  joint  when  the 
leg  is  extended  downwards. 

Second.  When  the  leg  is  ex- 
tended, raise  the  toes  as  much  as 
possible  and  adjust  the  stirrup 
strap  so  that  the  ball  of  the  foot 
will  rest  in  the  stirrup  at  the 
height  to  which  the  toes  are 
raised. 

Third.  When  the  ball  of  the 
foot  is  in  the  stirrup,  the  rider 
can,  keeping  his  ankle  still  bent, 
so  raise  himself  as  just  to  clear 
the  saddle. 

Fourth.  Before  mounting  put 
the  stirrup  under  the  arm-pit  and 
32 


THE  STIRRUP  STRAP 

adjust  the  stirrup  strap  to  the 
same  length  as  is  the  distance 
from  the  arm-pit  to  the  finger- 
tips. 


33 


VIII 
SPURS 

Spurs  are  set  over  the  heels 
and  are  fastened  by  a  strap 
around  the  instep.  They  give 
completion  to  one's  attire  even 
though  they  are  never  brought 
into  use  in  controlling  the  horse. 

But  spurs  really  are  very  use- 
ful. There  are  times  wrhen  more 
than  voice  or  whip  is  required  to 
insure  obedience  of  the  mount. 
Rightly  applied,  the  spur  assists 
in  urging  a  horse  to  go  forvsrard 
when  unruly  or  frightened.  Of- 
ten the  spur  brings  subjection 
34 


SPURS 

more  speedily  than  any  other 
method  of  control. 

When  the  spur  is  needed,  niove 
the  leg  towards  the  horse's  body, 
and  when  the  spur  point  is  w^ith- 
in  a  half  inch  of  it,  gently  strike 
it  home.  Use  it  cautiously,  not 
roughly.  When  the  spur  strikes, 
have  the  reins  well  in  hand. 

Sharp  spur  points  that  inflict 
unnecessary  pain  are  to  be 
avoided.  Keep  in  mind  that  the 
spur  is  to  be  a  reminder  of  pun- 
ishment to  the  horse  if  disobedi- 
ent. Frequently,  in  the  bleeding 
flanks,  it  tells  a  tale  of  the  bad 
temper  or  cruel  disposition  of  the 
rider. 


35 


IX 
THE  WHIP  OR  CROP 

There  is  a  rare  art  in  carrying 
a  whip  on  horseback.  The  man- 
ner by  which  it  is  held  and  used 
tells  a  story  all  its  own. 

A  whip  is  needed  not  so  much 
to  punish  the  horse  or  animate 
him,  as  to  control  his  gaits  and 
movements.  It  may  be  pressed 
against  the  flank  for  controlling 
and  guidance  much  in  the  same 
w^y  as  the  leg  is  used  for  this 
purpose. 

In  starting,  one  may  apply 
pressure  with  the  leg  and  whip 
36 


THE  WHIP  OR  CROP 

thus  bringing  the  horse  up  to  the 
bit.  In  making  a  turn  the  pres- 
sure of  the  whip  may  be  appHed 
at  the  rear  to  keep  the  haunches 
from  spreading  out. 

The  whip  should  be  held  in  the 
right  hand  and  may  hang  at  the 
side,  or  point  backwards  toward 
the  hip.  Avoid  a  heavy  hand  in 
holding  the  whip  and  do  not  let 
it  take  a  position  in  w^hich  it 
w^ould  touch  or  strike  the  horse 
w^hen  not  intended  to  do  so. 


37 


X 

MOUNTING 

One  should  learn  to  mount  from 
either  side  of  his  horse.  Most 
riders  prefer  the  left  side  as  a  gen- 
eral thing,  but  one's  education  is 
not  complete  until  he  is  able  to 
mount  from  the  right  side  as  well 
as  from  the  left  side. 

Before  mounting  speak  a  few 
words  to  the  horse.  You  have 
walked  up  to  him  in  a  quiet  w^ay 
and  are  full  of  anticipation  and 
confidence  yourself;  let  the  horse 
be  made  to  feel  the  same.  A  f ew^ 
gentle  pats  on  the  neck  and  face 
38 


MOUNTING 

will  do  wonders  in  putting  a 
horse  at  ease,  especially  if  you 
speak  to  him  gently  as  you  do 
your  patting. 

You  are  now  standing  at  his 
head;  and  to  mount,  you  need 
only  to  move  backw^ard  a  step  or 
tw^o  until  you  are  at  the  shoulder, 
the  left  one.  Fix  the  reins  in  the 
left  hand  and  with  the  right  hand 
separate  a  portion  of  the  mane, 
winding  it  about  the  left  thumb 
that  is  resting  on  the  withers  with 
the  reins  properly  in  place  in  be- 
tw^een  the  fingers. 

The  next  move  is  to  use  the 
right  hand  for  aiding  the  left  foot 
into  the  stirrup;  this  done,  the 
right  hand  is  carried  upwards  and 
placed  on  the  saddle,  the  thumb 
39 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

and  fingers  grasping  the  pommel 
of  the  saddle.  This  completes 
the  position  for  making  the 
mount. 

Make  a  springing  leap,  partly 
supporting  yourself  with  the  left 
leg  and  foot  already  in  place  in 
the  left  stirrup.  As  the  ascent 
is  made,  the  right  leg  is  thrown 
well  over  the  horse's  back  with- 
out bending  the  knee,  and  then 
drops  downw^ard  on  the  other 
side,  the  body  assumes  an  even 
posture,  the  right  hand  is  released 
of  its  hold,  the  right  foot  is  placed 
in  its  stirrup,  and  the  reins  are 
quickly  grasped  by  both  hands 
or  adjusted  in  the  left — and  the 
act  of  mounting  reaches  its  com- 
pletion. 

40 


MOUNTING 

All  this  is  done  in  a  surprisingly 
short  time,  but  while  doing  it 
make  sure  not  to  produce  any  re- 
action on  the  bit.  During  the  per- 
iod the  rein  is  held  tight  enough 
to  keep  the  horse  standing  quiet- 
ly. 


41 


XI 
THE    HANDS 

It  is  by  the  hand  or  hands  on  the 
rein  that  a  horse  is  more  or  less 
directed,  and  certainly  by  the 
hands  he  is  kept  in  control. 
Skilled  riders  for  the  most  part 
hold  the  reins  in  the  left  hand. 
Beginners  should  use  both  hands, 
holding  the  reins  on  either  side 
with  the  hand  on  that  side. 

Many  experienced  riders  like 
to  ride  in  this  manner  and  it  is 
perfectly  correct  for  them  so  to 
do.  It  depends  somewhat  on  the 
individual  and  somewhat  on  the 
42 


THE  HANDS 

horse.  When  a  perfectly  docile 
animal  is  ridden  and  which  is 
completely  submissive  to  the 
rider's  mastery,  the  left  hand  will 
quite  w^ell  suffice.  But  w^here 
great  care  is  necessary,  either  be- 
cause of  the  horse  or  of  the  roads, 
holding  the  reins  in  the  two  hands 
is  safest. 

Youthful  riders,  because  of 
their  small  hands,  should  always 
take  the  reins  in  the  tw^o  hands; 
and  w^omen  riders  usually  find 
this  manner  of  holding  the  reins 
the  most  satisfactory.  Experi- 
enced riders  follow^  both  meth- 
ods, changing  from  one  to  the 
other  as  the  mood  comes  on  them. 

The  hands  are  employed  to 
keep  the  horse  in  subjection,  and 
43 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

in  turning.  In  turning,  if  the 
horse  is  not  well  trained,  the  rein 
on  the  side  to  which  the  horse  is 
to  go  w^ill  be  gently  pulled,  thus 
indicating  the  direction.  A  horse 
well  educated  in  riding  methods 
may  be  turned  by  pressing  the 
rein  on  either  side  of  the  neck. 
He  is  then  said  to  be  "bridle 
w^ise." 

The  reins  are  held  in  the  left 
hand  thus:  thumb  up  and  point- 
ing to  the  horse's  ears;  reins  be- 
tween the  fingers,  one  rein  for 
each  if  four  reins  are  used;  the 
little  finger  directly  above  the 
pommel  of  the  saddle,  near  to  it 
but  not  more  than  a  few  inches 
above  it. 

The    hands    are    held    a    few^ 
44 


THE  HANDS 

inches  to  the  front  of  the  rider, 
giving  plenty  of  room  for  pulling 
in  the  reins  without  changing  the 
grasp  on  them.  All  reins  should 
be  clasped  between  the  thumb 
and  first  finger.  Learn  to  press 
the  thumb  on  the  reins  as  it  is  the 
controller  ;  back  of  it  lies  all  the 
power  and  strength  in  holding 
the  reins.  If  the  thumb  does  not 
grasp  the  reins  firmly,  the  rider  is 
likely  to  lose  his  reins  and  then 
he  comes  up  against  danger. 

This  manner  of  holding  the 
reins  enables  the  rider  to  carry 
the  elbow  close  to  his  side,  w^hich 
is  the  graceful  w^ay  to  carry  it. 
Very  frequently  one  observes 
riders  w^ith  the  back  of  the  hand 
turned  up,  the  knuckles  up w^ards; 
45 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

instead  of  greater  ease,  and  more 
power  coming  to  the  hands,  the 
reverse  is  true.  Spreading  elbows 
are,  therefore,  to  be  avoided. 

As  one  rides  more  and  more  he 
uses  his  hands  w^ith  greater  ease 
and  therefore  w^ith  more  free- 
dom. The  hands  acquire  a  dex- 
terity, or  '*hghtness,"  w^hich 
accompHshment  is  really  a  firm- 
ness of  the  hands  that  enables  the 
skillful  rider  to  direct  his  mount 
w^ith  such  sensitive  touch  as  to 
give  absolute  control  of  every 
movement. 


46 


XII 
THE    LEGS 

If  the  stirrup  straps  are  of 
proper  length  and  the  rider  clear- 
ly understands  what  it  means  to 
depend  upon  the  thighs  and 
knees  for  safety  in  the  seat,  the 
legs  will  assume  their  proper  po- 
sition and  greatly  help  in  keeping 
the  seat  and  maintaining  a  proper 
posture  of  the  body. 

But  the  legs  serve  other  pur- 
poses also.  They  help  to  guide 
and  assist  the  horse  in  his  move- 
ments no  less  so  than  the  hands. 
The  hands  control  the  move- 
47 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

ments  of  the  forequarters,  the 
legs  of  the  hind  quarters.  Indeed, 
the  only  control  of  the  horse's 
hind  parts  rests  in  the  use  of  the 
rider's  legs. 

When  the  rider's  legs  are 
pressed  against  the  horse's  sides, 
the  horse  is  induced  to  move  f  or- 
^ward  or  move  his  hind  feet  for- 
%Yard.  Thus,  without  wrords,  the 
horse  is  given  a  signal  as  to  what 
is  wanted. 

By  placing  one  leg  backwards, 
say  just  behind  the  saddle  girths, 
and  putting  gentle  pressure  on 
the  leg,  the  rider  will  turn  the 
horse  from  the  rear  around  the 
front  legs  from  that  side.  Like 
results  are  obtained  for  the  other 
side  w^hen  the  leg  on  that  side  is 
48 


THE  LEGS 

similarly  placed  for  the  opposite 
effect. 

The  legs  serve  also  in  turning. 
In  doing  this  equal  pressure  is 
given — one  leg  forward  of  the 
girths  and  the  other  to  the  rear. 
The  hand  on  the  rein  should  aid 
the  legs  in  bringing  about  the  de- 
sired result. 

In  still  another  vvray  the  legs 
may  be  brought  into  use.  The 
rider  shifts  his  weight  to  one  side 
by  partially  standing  in  one  stir- 
rup, releasing  all  w^eight  on  the 
other  leg.  This  action  w^ill  cause 
the  horse  to  raise  his  legs  and  feet 
on  the  side  from  w^hich  the 
weight  w^as  lifted. 

As  both  horse  and  rider  are 
educated  to  understand  the  ser- 
49 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

vice  and  importance  of  these 
simple  hints,  the  pleasure  of  rid- 
ing increases  proportionally. 


50 


XIII 
THE    FEET 

The  assistance  that  the  feet 
render  in  riding  conies  so  natur- 
ally in  connection  v/ith  the  treat- 
ment of  other  topics  that  there  is 
left  Httle  to  say  here  except  as  to 
the  proper  form  by  -which  the  feet 
are  to  be  carried  in  the  stirrups. 

There  are  three  rules  that  one 
should  never  forget:  First,  the 
feet  must  always  be  carried  near- 
ly parallel  to  the  horse's  body, 
with  the  toe  turned  out  very 
little,  and  the  heel  pressed  dow^n- 
ward. 

51 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

Secondly,  the  ball  of  the  foot 
must  rest  firmly  on  the  stirrup. 
The  exception  to  this  rule  is  in 
strenuous  riding,  such  as  riding  to 
the  hunt,  racing,  polo,  and  jump- 
ing, in  which  cases  the  foot  is 
allowed  to  '*go  home.'* 

Third,  the  feet  must  not  be 
flapped  in  and  out,  or  backwards 
and  f orw^ards. 

Nothing  is  so  indicative  of  bad 
form  as  any  departure  from  these 
three  rules;  also,  nothing  is  so  ex- 
pressive of  correct  riding  educa- 
tion and  discipline  as  a  constant 
observance  of  them. 


52 


XIV 
TURNING 

The  hand  and  leg  are  both  em- 
ployed in  turning.  The  hand  by- 
means  of  the  pull  on  one  rein  cen- 
ters attention  on  the  direction 
while  the  pressure  of  the  leg  in- 
fluences a  uniform  movement 
from  the  hind  quarters. 

In  turning  the  horse  in  any 
pace,  the  rider  should  recollect 
that  he  is  not  simply  to  pull  the 
horse  around  by  the  head.  The 
legs  should  be  held  sufficiently 
close  to  the  sides  of  the  horse  and 
when  the  rider  desires  to  turn,  the 
53 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

leg  on  the  side  from  which  it  is 
desired  to  turn,  should  be  carried 
back  of  the  girths  and  be  pressed 
against  the  horse  at  the  same  time 
that  the  hand  pulls  the  rein  on  the 
side  to  which  the  direction  is  to  be 
taken.  This  will  enable  the 
horse  to  turn  gracefully  and  to  re- 
tain his  lightness. 

Guided  by  the  legs  and  hands 
simultaneously  in  turning,  the 
horse  is  assured  of  an  equilibrium 
which  will  insure  safety  to  both 
horse  and  rider. 

Often  a  beginner  turns  his 
horse  too  quickly  and  in  so  doing 
causes  the  horse  to  step  on  his 
ow^n  feet.  This  gives  rise  to  what 
is  known  as  "corked  feet."  A 
w^ound  of  this  kind,  w^hich  often 
54 


TURNING 

is  serious,  may  be  entirely  avoid- 
ed in  making  a  turn  by  bringing 
the  horse  around  in  a  slow,  easy 
and  graceful  movement. 


55 


XV 
BACKING 

Many  times  come  when  it  is 
desirable  "to  back"  one's  mount. 
Too  frequently  backing  is  done 
awkwardly  and  ungracefully 
w^hen  the  reverse  ought  to  be  the 
case.  A  rider's  cleverness  and 
degree  of  horsemanship  is  indi- 
cated by  the  ease  and  mastery 
by  which  a  horse  is  backed  out  of 
difficulty  or  into  a  better  position 
for  a  few  minutes  of  waiting. 

In  backing,  make  certain  that 
the  horse  is  not  twisted  or  stand- 
ing in  a  curve.  Make  him  stand 
56 


BACKING 

straight,  the  croup  in  line  with 
the  rider's  shoulders,  the  horse 
light  in  hand,  and  easy  in  the  bit. 
Now  press  gently  against  the  two 
sides  in  such  a  w^ay  as  to  cause  the 
horse  to  lift  one  of  his  hind  legs, 
the  light  bit  being  held  suffi- 
ciently strong  to  prevent  his  ad- 
vancing. 

At  once  w^hen  a  hind  leg  is 
raised,  pull  in  on  the  curb  rein 
w^hich  wrill  cause  the  horse  to  re- 
place the  raised  leg  on  the  ground 
but  at  the  rear  of  the  place  w^here 
the  foot  originally  had  been. 
These  movements  are  to  be  con- 
tinued until  the  desired  position  is 
reached.  If  the  horse  turns  to 
right  or  left  bring  him  into  place 
57 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

by  the  proper  pressure  of  the  leg 
and  by  aid  of  the  Hght  bit. 

To  walk  backwards  is  good 
practice  for  both  rider  and  horse 
and  after  a  J^rief  experience  it 
may  be  done  easily  and  grace- 
fully. It  is  a  good  test  in  the  edu- 
cation of  both  horse  and  rider. 


58 


XVI 
THE   HALT 

Only  by  practice  can  one  fully 
understand  the  rare  acquirement 
of  bringing  his  horse  to  a  halt 
from  a  rapid  pace.  One  of  the 
prettiest  accomplishments  is  to 
make  a  quick  halt  from  a  fast  pace 
as,  for  example,  the  gallop.  All 
skillful  riders  effect  this  without 
difficulty,  for  they  and  their 
horses  are  reasonably  well 
trained. 

The  secret  of  making  the  halt 
from  a  rapid  pace  is  to  give  the 
command  w^hen  the  hind  legs  are 

59 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

under  the  horse.  For  the  walk 
or  slow  trot  this  rule  is  not  im- 
portant, but  in  rapid  paces  it  is. 

The  aim  in  halting  is  to  distrib- 
ute the  shock  to  fore  and  hind 
legs.  A  sudden  halt  made  w^hen 
the  horse  is  on  the  front  legs  may 
lead  to  a  fall.  Stopping  on  the 
front  legs  gives  horse  and  rider 
an  unnecessary  jolt  which  is  dis- 
agreeable and  dangerous  for 
both. 

A  good  rule  is  to  have  the  hind 
legs  under  the  body  when  the 
horse  stops  so  that  they  receive 
a  part  of  the  shock,  and  the  full 
shock  is  not  forced  upon  the  front 
legs.  The  horse  is  touched 
gently  w^ith  the  spurs  wrhen  the 
hind  legs  are  forward,  and  imme- 
60 


THE  HALT 

diately  the  reins  are  drawn  in. 
This  method  gives  a  graceful  halt 
and  inconveniences  neither  horse 
nor  rider. 

Inexperienced  riders  often 
draw  the  reins  with  a  sudden  pull 
without  communicating  the  pur- 
pose in  any  manner  to  the  horse. 
Unf amiliarity  with  the  right  v/ay 
of  halting  has  precipitated  many 
a  rider  over  the  horse's  head. 

A  safe  rule  for  beginners  is  to 
bring  the  horse  gradually  to  a 
walk  from  whatever  pace  the 
horse  is  making  and  then  by  w^ord 
or  drawing-in  of  the  reins  the 
rider  conveys  the  signal  to  come 
to  a  halt. 


61 


XVII 

THE    WALK 

The  walk  is  the  gait  that  should 
first  be  attempted  on  starting  a 
ride,  either  by  beginner  or  experi- 
enced horseman.  This  insures  the 
rider's  conjfidence  in  the  horse 
and  allows  him  time  to  study  the 
animal's  disposition.  If,  of  course, 
the  rider  is  w^ell  acquainted  w^ith 
his  mount,  this  is  not  necessary, 
but  in  general  when  one  rides  a 
horse  entirely  strange  to  him  he 
should  make  that  horse  walk  for 
a  few  minutes,  turning  him  in 
different  directions,  and  causing 
62 


THE  WALK 

him  to  stop  and  then  go  at  will. 

When  he  has  his  mount  under 
control  to  his  satisfaction  he  is 
then  ready  to  try  other  slow 
gaits,  or  the  trot  and  canter. 
These  latter  gaits  v^ill  be  more 
enjoyable  if  the  rider  feels  at 
ease  on  his  mount.  The  beginner, 
however,  should  let  the  w^alk  be 
the  only  gait  for  the  first  lesssons 
at  least. 

The  w^alk  is  the  simplest  of  all 
gaits.  It  is  only  necessary  to  say 
of  it  that  w^hen  resorted  to  as  a 
resting  or  breathing  time  for  a 
weary  horse,  it  should  be  per- 
formed with  animation,  the  head 
being  kept  in  position  and  the  ac- 
tion made  lively  and  firm. 

But  after  fast  traveling  on  the 

63 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

road  it  is  at  times  desirable  to  al- 
low the  horse's  head  to  drop  and 
the  whole  muscular  system  of  the 
horse's  body  to  become  relaxed. 
He  must  be  ready  instantly,  how- 
ever, to  regain  his  firmness  in 
case  of  a  fallen  step. 

The  rider  can  help  the  horse 
even  in  w^alking.  It  is  advisable 
aWays  to  have  a  fairly  firm  grasp 
upon  the  reins  and  if  the  horse 
should  happen  to  stumble,  the 
rider  can  assist  in  the  recovery  by 
quickly  drawing  them  in. 

In  changing  gaits,  usually  the 
start  is  made  from  the  w^alk,  al- 
though a  horse  ought  to  respond 
to  any  gait  to  which  the  rider 
desires  to  change. 

In  going  from  a  wralk  to  a  trot, 
64 


THE  WALK 

the  rider  should  slacken  the  reins, 
and  rise  in  the  saddle;  and  for  the 
canter  he  should  give  the  horse 
free  rein  and  lean  well  forward 
in  the  saddle. 

A  well-trained  horse  will 
change  from  one  gait  to  another 
directly  without  going  back  to 
the  walk.  If,  for  instance,  the 
rider  is  trotting  and  w^ishes  to 
canter,  he  should  lean  forward 
in  the  saddle  and  give  the  horse 
full  rein.  In  other  w^ords,  to 
change  the  gait,  the  rider  simply 
assumes  the  position  that  he 
w^ould  have  in  the  new  gait  and 
the  horse  falls  naturally  into  that 
new^  gait. 


65 


XVIII 
THE   TROT 

Unquestionably,  the  trot  is  the 
fashionable  gait  in  horseback 
riding.  It  is  less  easy  for  the  rider 
and  for  the  horse  than  a  well 
gathered  canter  and  it  is  for  both 
an  artificial  gait.  Both  horse 
and  rider  need  practice  before  the 
gait  can  be  performed  gracefully. 
It  is  in  the  trot  that  posture  so 
frequently  takes  on  an  unsightly 
appearance;  the  rider  should  sit 
up  straight,  head  held  high,  chin 
in,  as  if  the  world  belongs  to  him. 

When  the  horse's  right  fore- 
66 


THE  TROT 

leg  goes  forward,  rise  up,  press- 
ing the  stirrup  with  the  ball  of  the 
foot  and  then  come  down  on  the 
saddle  w^hen  the  left  foreleg  goes 
forward.  By  practice  this  posting 
will  become  very  natural  and  the 
rider  will  wonder  why  he  never 
did  it  before.  Once  you  get  it  the 
trick  will  never  leave  you.  Al- 
ways go  w^ith  the  horse;  go  up 
with  him;  then  dow^n;  up-dovvrn, 
up-down. 

Counting,  it  runs: 

1  -  2,  1  -  2,  1  -  2. 

Right  foreleg  forward,  -  1  ;  left 
foreleg,  -  2. 

Repeat  this  to  yourself  and  you 
will  find  it  helps  greatly. 

It  is  in  the  trot  that  you  see  so 
many  riders  riding  as  if  they  w^ere 

67 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

jumping  jacks,  bounding  up  in 
the  seat  and  coming  down  again 
on  the  saddle.  In  rising  one 
should  barely  leave  the  saddle. 
The  thickness  of  the  hand  be- 
tween the  saddle  and  the  body  is 
an  old  rule  of  experienced  horse- 
men. To  insure  this,  the  length  of 
the  stirrup  strap  should  be  cor- 
rect as  to  length.  I  myself  like  a 
long  stirrup  as  I  find  I  have  then 
better  thigh  support. 

Properly  adjusted,  the  stirrup 
straps  make  easy  posting  pos- 
sible. There  follow^s  perfect 
rhythm  betvsreen  horse  and  rider, 
otherwise,  lacking  this  harmon- 
ious motion,  the  rider  is  jolted  up 
and  down,  bumping  and  pitching, 
as  each  step  is  taken. 
68 


THE  TROT 

I  repeat  again:  make  certain 
that  the  stirrup  straps  are  of 
proper  length — and  go  with  the 
horse.  Do  not  work  too  hard,  for 
body  tenseness  greatly  dimin- 
ishes the  pleasure  that  comes 
from  riding. 


69 


XIX 

GALLOP  AND  CANTER 

The  gallop  and  canter  are  en- 
tirely different  paces.  The  gallop 
is  a  succession  of  short  leaps, 
whereas  the  canter  is  a  move- 
ment of  the  front  and  hind  legs 
successively,  yet  the  transition  of 
one  to  the  other  is  so  gradual  that 
it  would  be  difficult  exactly  to 
fix  it. 

The  riding  horse  is  bred  to 
raise  his  feet  well  up  in  the  air. 
This  is  particularly  essential  with 
the  canter,  w^hich  is  a  slow^  high 
bound.  In  taking  this  pace  the 
70 


GALLOP  AND  CANTER 

horse  is  made  to  gallop  and  then 
to  go  slow. 

Like  the  trot,  the  gallop  or  can- 
ter is  a  popular  gait.  It  is  easy  on 
the  horse,  and  besides  it  gives  the 
rider  much  more  exercise  than 
does  the  rack.  The  style  of  riding 
in  both  gaits  is  very  much  the 
same. 

In  both  the  gallop  and  canter 
the  knees  and  thighs  should  in  all 
cases  grasp  the  horse,  but  not 
v^ith  so  much  power  as  to  render 
the  horse  uncomfortable. 

In  these  gaits  the  motion  of  the 
horse  is  very  much  increased 
over  the  walk  or  trot  and  hence 
proportionally  greater  is  the 
necessity  for  caution  to  secure  a 
safe,  firm  seat. 

71 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

A  beginner  should  not  attempt 
the  canter  or  gallop  until  he  feels 
safe  with  the  trot,  and  has  gained 
perfect  confidence  in  his  ability 
to  keep  his  seat. 

It  is  usually  best  not  to  gallop, 
or  even  to  use  the  slower  pace  of 
canter,  in  a  city  park.  Accidents 
constantly  occur,  the  horse  be- 
coming frightened  at  the  sight 
of  many  people  and  vehicles;  if 
the  rider  is  inexperiencd,  the 
horse  is  likely  to  take  the  bit  in 
his  mouth  and  run. 

If  one  desires  to  gallop  and  can- 
ter, he  should  go  on  a  long,  open 
road,  preferably  a  dirt  road,  and 
one  w^here  there  is  but  little  traf- 
fic. On  such  roads,  wth  a  little 
experience,  the  rider  will  enjoy 
12 


GALLOP  AND  CANTER 

the  fast  gaits  to  the  utmost.  It 
is  wonderful  exercise. 

The  inexperienced  rider  should 
always  canter  or  gallop  up  a  hili 
and  w^alk  dow^n. 

In  cantering  up^  the  rider  helps 
the  horse  up;  in  walking  down, 
the  rider  may  assist  in  keeping 
the  horse  from  stumHling. 


73 


XX 

OTHER   RIDING  GAITS 

There  remain  two  other  gaits 
that  frequently  are  seen  on  the 
road  or  in  the  parks.  These  are 
the  step-and-pace  and  the  rack 
or  single  foot. 

In  the  step-and-pace,  the  mo- 
tion is  first  a  little  faster  than  in 
the  walk.  In  it  the  forelegs  of  the 
horse  have  the  motion  of  the  slow 
canter  and  the  hind  legs  the  mo- 
tion of  the  trot.  Since  this  is  not 
a  natural  gait  it  is  a  difficult  one 
to  teach  a  horse  to  keep. 

The  single  foot,  often  called  the 
74 


OTHER  RIDING  GAITS 

rack,  is  the  result  of  the  horse 
planting  his  feet  in  the  same  way 
as  in  the  step-and-pace.  It  is  the 
same  kind  of  gait,  only  faster. 

In  these  two  gaits  the  rider  sits 
well  down  in  the  saddle.  They 
are  restful  gaits  for  the  rider  but 
rather  tiresome  for  the  horse. 

To  go  from  a  walk  to  either  of 
these  paces,  the  rider  sits  well 
down  in  the  saddle,  keeps  the 
reins  taut  and  urges  the  horse  out 
of  the  w^alk. 


75 


XXI 
DISMOUNTING 

One  may  leave  the  saddle  by 
reversing  the  movements  for 
mounting.  Briefly,  this  is  done 
as  follows: 

Holding  the  reins  and  crop  in 
the  left  hand,  the  right  is  placed 
on  the  pommel  of  the  saddle;  the 
right  foot  is  now^  withdraw^n 
from  the  stirrup;  the  right  leg, 
held  reasonably  straight,  is 
throw^n  backw^ards  and  carried 
over  the  horse's  croup,  with  care 
exercised  so  as  not  to  strike  the 
horse.  The  circuit  of  the  right 
76 


DISMOUNTING 

leg  is  continued  and  when  it  has 
been  carried  over  the  region  of 
the  croup  it  is  lowered  to  the 
ground. 

As  these  movements  are  pro- 
gressing, the  rider  is  in  the  act  of 
lowering,  or  already  has  partly 
lowered  himself  from  his  seat  in 
the  saddle,  so  that  by  the  time 
the  foot  touches  the  ground  his 
own  body  has  followed,  avoiding 
any  great  stretch  of  the  leg  or  any 
unsightly  appearance  of  his  per- 
son in  the  descent. 

The  act  of  dismounting  is  com- 
pleted by  withdrawing  the  left 
foot  from  its  stirrup  through  the 
aid  of  the  right  hand.  The  left 
stirrup  should  not  be  permitted 
to  flap  against  the  horse's  flank. 
77 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

This  is  common,  but  it  is  not  good 
form. 

Many  agile  riders  pride  them- 
selves on  dismounting  in  another 
manner,  thus:  Both  feet  are 
taken  from  the  stirrups  and  both 
hands  placed  at  the  front  of  the 
saddle.  By  means  of  a  spring 
from  the  wrists,  the  saddle  and 
horse  are  cleared,  the  rider  land- 
ing on  his  feet  near  the  horse. 
One  may  dismount  on  either  side 
as  he  chooses,  but  in  any  case 
keep  hold  on  the  reins  with  the 
hand  that  is  resting  on  the 
withers. 

Another  simple  method  of  dis- 
mounting is  to  bring  the  right  leg 
over  the  front  of  the  saddle  to  the 
left  side  and  then  jump  down. 

78 


DISMOUNTING 

Boys  usually  find  this  method 
very  speedy,  and  they  are  apt  to 
use  it  at  all  times.  It  is  permis- 
sible for  anyone  to  dismount  in 
this  way  as  it  shows  the  agility  of 
the  rider. 


79 


XXII 
BAD  MANNERS 

It  is  bad  manners  to  cluck  at  a 
horse,  to  shake  the  reins  with  the 
hands,  or  to  flap  the  stirrups  in 
and  out  or  back  and  forth,  with 
the  feet  in  them. 

Many  terms  are  used  by  differ- 
ent riders  in  starting  and  stop- 
ping the  horse.  The  terms  one 
should  use  naturally  depend  up- 
on those  to  which  the  horse  is 
most  accustomed. 

To  cluck  at  a  horse  involves 
many  dangers.  If  several  people 
are  riding  together  and  a  person 
80 


BAD  MANNERS 

in  the  rear  should  cluck  to  his 
horse,  the  horses  in  the  lead 
would  hear  the  clucking  and  im- 
mediately start  up  in  a  more 
rapid  gait.  A  person  in  the  lead 
may  be  fixing  a  stirrup,  or  not 
paying  particular  attention  to  his 
horse,  and  when  his  mount  sud- 
denly begins  to  trot,  canter  or 
run,  if  he  is  not  a  skilled  rider,  he 
may  be  throw^n. 

Always  think  of  the  other  per- 
son and  how  he  might  be  harmed 
by  your  unthinking  cluck  to 
your  horse. 

Of  course  the  ideal  w^ay  is  to 
signal  by  pressure  on  reins  or 
with  the  legs,  but  this  is  general- 
ly impossible  w^here  the  same 
horse  is  used  by  many  riders  and 
81 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

no  two  riders  use  the  same  man- 
ner of  communication. 

The  same  is  true  with  respect 
to  gaits.  A  horse  under  ordinary 
circumstances  starts  out  in  a 
walk.  If  the  horse  does  not  know 
the  signal  or  the  word  for  taking 
another  gait,  naturally  he  cannot 
respond  to  what  the  rider  wants 
done.  Touching  up  with  the  whip 
will  increase  the  pace,  but  what 
pace  the  horse  will  take  is  de- 
pendent upon  the  mood  or  pre- 
vious teaching  of  the  horse. 

Do  not  shake  the  reins  in  order 
to  start  up  your  horse  but  use  the 
crop,  or  touch  up  with  the  spurs. 
That  is  what  these  are  made  for^ 
and  the  sooner  one  learns  to  use 
them  the  better. 
82 


BAD  MANNERS 

To  flap  the  stirrups  is  undoubt- 
edly one  of  the  most  unpardon- 
able faults.  Keep  the  leg  stiff 
from  knee  downward  and  avoid 
letting  it  sway  to  and  fro. 


83 


XXIII 
THE   SEAT 

Every  horseback  rider  is  inter- 
ested in  two  things:  hovv^  to  ride 
with  safety  and  how  to  ride  well. 
The  hints  and  exercises  hereto- 
fore suggested  have  been  pre- 
sented to  accomplish  both  of 
these  results.  A  few  additional 
words  remain  yet  to  be  said  about 
the  seat,  for  the  reason  that  in  it 
are  centered  not  only  security  on 
the  horse  but  also  the  appearance 
of  the  rider.  The  rider's  posture 
on  his  horse  when  in  action  tell 
the  story. 

84 


THE  SEAT 

It  is  in  the  seat,  in  the  rider's 
poise,  in  his  posture  v/hen  sitting 
in  the  saddle  on  the  horse,  in  the 
carriage  of  his  body  and  in  his 
manner  of  riding  that  personality 
and  charm  are  reflected  and  the 
skill  and  the  mastery  of  the 
mount  most  clearly  portrayed. 

Don  Quixote  understood  the 
meaning  of  this  kind  of  good  rid- 
ing. In  one  of  his  lectures  to  San- 
cho  he  said  '*the  seat  on  a  horse's 
back  makes  some  people  look 
like  gentlemen  and  others  like 
grooms."  These  words  convey 
an  unquestioned  meaning  as  to 
what  one  ought  to  do  and  how^  to 
do  it  w^hen  riding  a  horse. 

When  a  rider  becomes  thor- 
oughly at  home  on  a  horse  he  will 
85 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

to  a  large  degree  ride  indepen- 
dently of  his  hold  on  the  reins. 
This  will  come  about  from  right 
use  of  his  whole  body,  not  of  the 
hands  and  legs  only,  but  also  of 
the  trunk  above  the  waist.  Every 
rider  should  so  school  himself  in 
training  the  upper  portion  of  his 
body  that  he  can  lean  far  to  the 
right  or  the  left,  lie  forward  on 
the  horse's  neck  or  backwards  on 
his  croup,  restoring  his  position 
w^ithout  pulling  on  the  reins  or 
interfering  with  his  seat  in  the 
saddle. 

Equally  important  w^hen  riding 
is  keeping  the  spine  straight. 
'*Don't  slouch"  is  so  obvious  as 
hardly  to  be  necessary  to  say. 
Were  it  not  a  fact  that  many 
86 


THE  SEAT 

riders  do  slouch,  this  fault  would 
not  be  mentioned.  The  right 
way  is  to  sit  straight,  with  the 
head  up  and  the  chin  in,  and 
maintain  the  body  with  a  supple- 
ness that  suggests  grace,  ease  and 
experience.  The  rider  w^ill  then 
feel  at  home  on  his  horse  bcause 
he  is  at  home  on  him. 

At  home  on  the  horse!  To  ride 
well!  To  tell  how  these  two  ends 
and  all  they  mean  may  be 
attained  is  the  purpose  of  this 
little  book.  It  will  best  fulfill  its 
mission  by  emphasizing  at  all 
times  gentle  bearing,  a  graceful 
appearance  and  a  genial  person- 
ality in  riding.  This  noble  exer- 
cise is  truly  a  fine  art  and  is 
87 


HORSEBACK  RIDING 

"worthy  of  all  the  patience  and 
perseverance  expended  in  mas- 
tering it. 


88 


jbrtBrFamRy  Ubrary  of  Vtelennafy  Medwne 

School  of  Veterinary  Medicine  at 

Tufts  University 

200  Westixxo  Road 

llor^  Grafton  MA  01536 


